Make your very own Christmas Jumper following our appliqué tutorial. Start by choosing a plain sweatshirt or top of your choice. You will need a coordinating or contrasting fabric for the motif, thread and a double sided adhesive such as Bondaweb.
Design your own motif, or download our Stag Head Pattern. Draw the pattern onto paper or card for ease. Check out the corresponding YouTube tutorial (DIY: Appliqué Christmas Jumper) for a detailed view!
Position the motif onto the smooth side of the Bondaweb (check your individual instructions). Draw around the motif using a pencil.
Roughly cut around the drawn motif and position the rough textured side of the Bondaweb onto the WRONG side of the motif fabric.
Think about the placement of the motif fabric (is there a pattern that needs to be positioned in a certain way?)
Iron the Bondaweb onto the fabric using heat (check the individual instructions of your double sided adhesive.)
Cut out the Bondaweb and motif fabric, around the drawn line.
Peel off the backing paper of the Bondaweb. This can be tricky to get started!
The WRONG side of the motif fabric should now feeling slightly tacky to the touch (this is the Bondaweb).
Place the motif onto the top or sweatshirt, with the WRONG side of the motif fabric against the front of the garment. Centralise the motif with a ruler.
Iron the motif onto the top using heat and steam, or a damp pressing cloth. Again we would recommend checking the instructions of your individual double sided adhesive.
You are welcome to leave the motif attached with Bondaweb, if you are after a quick fix. However for something more professional and longer lasting we recommend hand or machine sewing the motif onto the garment.
There are a number of different machine stitches that you can complete for appliqué; check out our appliqué tutorial on YouTube (How To: Appliqué) for a detailed instruction of three different methods: straight stitch, zigzag and satin stitch.
We used a satin stitch to attach the motif onto the garment. Some sewing machines will have a satin stitch as a stitch option, however for more basic sewing machines you will need to change the width and length of a zigzag stitch.
Stitch Width: 2-3mm (this will depend on the thickness of your fabric)
Stitch Length: 0-0.5mm
We recommend testing the satin stitch to obtain the correct width and length prior to completing this on the garment. To create the satin stitch you will need to keep the stitch length as close together as possible, however the stitch will need to be moving through the machine (if the stitch length is too close to 0mm, you will find the sewing machine stitches on top of itself to create a lump). Start with the length at 0mm on a sample of fabric and gradually increase the length until the sewing machine moves the fabric through the sewing machine, but is creating very close stitches (this is usually about 0.2mm-0.3mm).
You will also need to test the placement of the satin stitch on a sample before starting on the real garment. You want the zigzag to jump from both the garment to the motif fabric. Find a mark that you can follow on your presser foot for accuracy.
If you are working on a jersey knit we recommend using a ball point needle (so that the needle doesn’t damage your work). You may find that a walking foot will be useful at pulling fabrics through the sewing machine evenly.
If you find that the sewing machine is puckering the fabric, try using a fabric stabiliser such as Vilene Stitch N’ Tear. Position this onto the wrong side of the fabric and tear away after use. If you don’t have a fabric stabiliser to hand try using tissue paper (or worst case scenario Tracing Paper/Plain Paper) to the same effect.